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Assante Sana

“Jambo…jambo” It is chant and chorus–Hakuna Matata–the song that The Lion King made famous. The porters, guides cooks, etc. surround me. I recognize Freddy, Solomon, Seki and a few others, but most–especially the ones leading the song, I haven’t seen before. There are 72 paid staff and most I haven’t even seen. They are the ones who carry the tents, the food, our gear, and they are the ones who just carried me.

We started at the bottom of the Rongai Route at about noon on the first day. It had been a four hour drive to the Kenya and dry side of the mountain to avoid the slippery mud of the Morangu Route. That first dayI felt strong and sure that I’d suprise myself. My training wasn’t what I’d hoped, but I had this strange feeling that I’d come into my own on the mountain. Eight hours later, under the veil of darkness, I’d rolled into the first camp–a feat I didn’t think possible before I’d started.

 That first day I’d climbed a steep rocky slope so much more difficult than anything I’d ever approached. We’d used the winch. I pulled myself up the fixed rope and the porters had laid boards over some of the more difficult sections. At the top one wheel perched at least three feet off the ground as I crawled over the last rock. I’d never been in that kind of position. I didn’t know if the wheel would come down or if I’d tip over. The wheel came down. For the first time everyone clapped. I felt a bit self-conscious because this was just the first day. This was supposed to be the easy part. Still, I made it to camp and that allowed me to dream, that just maybe I could achieve the summit.

 The second day was another eight hour affair and a slight setback. As darkness approached we were forced to set camp about 1000 vertical feet from the proposed camp. It was supposed to be 1000 vertical meters in a little over three miles. I’d never done 1000 vetical meters (3300 vertical feet or so), but after the first day it seemed manageable, especially in three miles. I didn’t realize just how steep and unrelenting it would be. Each turn presented another almost impossible, steep, loose rocked climb. Water bars of loose rock, spaced about a time and a half of my wheel diameter proved to be the most challenging part. I had to pick a line each time knowing that any slight miscalculation would stop me dead.

 The first fifteen minutes of the day’s climb are always the worst. I feel like I won’t make it thorough those first few minutes, but once I do I start to find my rhythm. That second day I never found my rhythm. It was a relief when Dean, the head guide, said that we couldn’t make the second camp and needed to stop. The sun went down at 6:30 pm. With the memory of the previous night’s sapping cold, I couldn’t wait to get into my sleeping bag.

We’d proposed splitting the days in half all along. With just a thousand feet of vertical left, I was sure that the next day would be easy. I’d finish in the light. It would be a recharge day. I took that belief with me as I started the third morning. Almost immediately I was forced to the winch. The trail was too steep. I couldn’t pedal without slipping. With the winch I moved forward, but it was slow moving, and we were still on the approach. This was supposed to be the easy part. The top was supposed to be difficult, and I couldn’t even see it yet.

Plugging away all day long I felt like I’d made some ground, but all those times that someone said that lunch rock was five minutes or ten minutes away slipped into an hour or more. Finally Dean presented me with a choice. I could continue, but we’d risk not seeing the whole mountain. We’d come to scout–to learn as much as we could, but I didn’t know what the decision would bring. I decided to ask for help.

My team and the porters pulled and eventually carried me through a part of the trail that had been wiped out be the rains. There’s no way that I could have made it through that part on my own. It was far too narrow. I seem to arrive at camp in a moment and that’s when the singing starts.

Jambo…Jambo. I don’t recognize many of the words. It feels much more free form, though I hear Kilimanjaro, bicycleta (or something like that), American. For the first time our porters and guides share in my climb. I sit in the middle of the circle wondering how obvous defeat could turn so quickly into victory.

 I had started with the aim of climbing unassisted. I figured that the mountain would teach me something I needed to know. Unassisted could mean isolation. My indepence could keep me separate. By asking for help I brought the team together.

With the help of the team and porters I made it to 5000 meters or 16,500 feet. We saw enough to prepare for next year. I saw enough to know that another try will be the most difficult thing I’ve tried. Each time I thought that the trip would become easier it became harder. Rolling to the top was more like rock climbing than hiking. I solved problems the whole way. Physical fatigue was a part but the mental fatigue was worse. Even going back down was a struggle. The path was rougher than I could imagine. I rolled over boulders at least three feet tall. I had thought that down would be easy, yet I could barely keep pace with the walkers.

 If I wanted a challenge and I did, I’ve found it. The next few months will be a huge challenge, and then there will be many days on the mountain. I can’t imagine the lessons I will learn then.

13 comments

13 Comments so far

  1. mom and dad July 10th, 2008 10:58 pm

    WOW !!!

    Love, Mom and Dad

  2. lori and ben July 11th, 2008 9:36 pm

    Hey Chris, Thanks for sharing your inspiring story. We are on the other side of the southern hemispere from you in Argentina and send good thoughts!! See you back in Park City.

    Lori Adamski-Peek and Ben Fonnesbeck

  3. Kaitlin July 12th, 2008 12:28 am

    Hey Chris, Just wanted to know we’re thinking of you back here in Boston. You are an inspiration to us all. Wishing you lots of love and luck. Have a safe trip home.

    Bunches of Love,
    Kaitlin

  4. Neighborhood Homework Club Kiddos July 12th, 2008 12:54 am

    Way to go Chris! You are awesome. We can’t wait to see you, see your photos, and hear more of your great stories!
    Andrew, Payton, Sam, James, Taylor, Jake, Amelia, Annabel, Dakota, Kasey, Lane, Jaron, Katie, Jackie, Megan, Jackson, and Hannah.
    You Rock!

  5. Brenda July 12th, 2008 2:41 am

    Awesome Job!!! Thanks for the update. It’s always great to hear from you about the progress you are making. Have a safe trip back.

    Brenda

  6. Sabs July 12th, 2008 9:40 pm

    Wadds,

    Great update….thanks for sharing.

    I look forward to connecting when you get back from your trip.

    Sabs

  7. Kurt July 13th, 2008 12:53 pm

    Chris -
    I had been wondering how the scouting trip went. My wife and I climbed Kili on the Shira route a couple of years ago and wondered “How will Chris make it up THIS section.” From your description, you truly succeeded in ways I didn’t think possible. Looking forward to following next year’s climb. Let me know if I can help in any way.
    Jambo!
    Kurt Bestor

    http://kbestor.blogspot.com/2006/09/kilimanjaro-climb-it-with-me.html

  8. BELEN July 13th, 2008 3:46 pm

    Jambo!

    We met you at the Sopa Lodge in Tarangire. We were lucky to bring John to Arusha to pick up his plane. On the long way he explained us about the expedition and your story. We were very impressed . He offered me the orange brazalet that I m wearing since then. I just wanted to write you to wish you the very best and tell you how impressed i m with your story …. Big smile from Barcelona. I will be waiting for you to achive your goal and see the documentary.

  9. Cindy July 13th, 2008 4:34 pm

    Chris- What an incredible adventure! So glad the dream is alive… Can’t wait to hear more!!!
    Cindy

  10. Beth O. July 14th, 2008 7:19 pm

    You won’t back down and you stand your ground (someone wrote a song about that!). Congratulations on what seems to be an impossible feat. You are amazing. I hope you will give yourself some time to rest (advice from your godmother!).

    Love,

    Beth

  11. Tom McCurdy July 15th, 2008 5:05 am

    Chris:

    Glad to see that you are up to something constructive!!

    While reading your blog entries from earlier in the year, I was impressed to see how well you have incorporated the Asian philosophy in the Dan Milman book you and I talked about reading while we were sitting trackside at the Stoke Games in 1995. The stories of your experiences reminded me a lot of Zen and the Art of Archery as well.

    I was glad to read tribute to Sir Guttman the pioneers who have helped make our lives infinitely more interesting and fulfilling. Jim Martinson has been one of my heroes too.

    I was just in Tanzania as well, also on the Rongai Route up Kili. I went there with my son, a friend from our trek into Everest Base camp in 1998, and another friend from Idaho State University. Having read your blog entries before I left, like Kurt Bestor, I too was experiencing sections of the trail I assumed you would be using and was left wondering how you would get over this section or how this obstacle would be possible.

    I also found out that the route was much more difficult than I had anticipated. I’m glad you took the time and have the resources to have done a scouting run. I really hope your trip next year is much more successful as a result.

    You are a great person and this endeavor is very worthwhile. I hope you pull it off and get yourself up to “Freedom” peak.

    Best of luck!!

    Tom McCurdy

  12. Beth July 19th, 2008 4:34 pm

    Wow! After reading the scouts report I am in awe. You and your team are pretty amazing. I had goose bumps and tears reading it. Way to go and Congratulations to all. Hope you all get some much needed rest.
    Love,
    Beth (the other aunt)

  13. Bathroom July 29th, 2011 3:18 pm

    Nice post!!! Thank you very much for sharing.

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